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Performance & Modification Make your Mercedes 190E fast - discuss performance tuning and modifications like turbo kits, supercharger systems, exhaust and mufflers, cams, cold air intakes, performance rebuilds, etc.
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Ninja
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Join Date: May 2003
Location: New Jersey /:]
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06-07-2008, 04:46 PM
Edit:::
Well here are a few questions for the megasquirt kings or just efii specialties.
Most of this is for the silvercosworth kit wiring harness...
-The fuel pump relay, which one is it behind the battery the closest to the headlights or the further one away? And when connecting the pin37 wire to the fuel pump relay from Megasquirt, which pin do I connect to the fuel pump? a 12v side?? not exactly sure.
- Also I will be using the stock Bosch 3 pin PWM idle valve. for pin 30 on mega, what 3 pins do i conect that for on the 3 pin pigtail on the PWM. And what are the other two pins connected to, a 12v and a ground most likely.....?
-Also for the injectors the 12v sonstant from mega pin 28 has to be connected to each injector?
-And in between each wire there are a few that need relays and fuses, do I just put a fuse inbetween them, or is there a way that I can get around that with, or just get a fuse holder and a fuse between the wire. For example 12v constant wire from pin 28 to the injectors need a 2A, before the PWm wire touches, and then a 5A between each bank, ex. bank 1 and bank 2.
-Finally the 12 constant wire for pin 28 where is the best place to get power from near the battery?, tied in with what about the main relay what amp should that be....
Thanxs guys.
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Last edited by george3soccer : 06-10-2008 at 12:15 AM.
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MechManiac
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Posts: 1,100
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Berthierville, Canada
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06-13-2008, 04:15 AM
sory for the dellay, i've had some issues with my computer... and been busy tuning EFI to get it working well  Just tuned it with the std O2 sensor (ordered a wideband yesterday) but it does run well enough to use it daily... still hard to start tho.
my trigger wheel centers on the damper just like the pulley does... it's just squezed between the pulley and the damper. I'll take pics tomorow and will post them this w-e
3x 2.3-16, one EFI, two project
tuned Cavalier 2.2 (winter beater)
Honda VTR 250 project bike (650cc mono + EFI swap)
Honda CL-70 1972 (125cc swap)
Honda VTR 250 1990
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MechManiac
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Posts: 1,100
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Berthierville, Canada
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06-13-2008, 04:20 AM
Oh and George... for 12v source, i use the wire that initialy powers the OEM fuel pump rellay to feed fuel pump and the injectors, etc and i use the oem computer power wire to feed megasquirt.
3x 2.3-16, one EFI, two project
tuned Cavalier 2.2 (winter beater)
Honda VTR 250 project bike (650cc mono + EFI swap)
Honda CL-70 1972 (125cc swap)
Honda VTR 250 1990
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MechManiac
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Berthierville, Canada
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06-13-2008, 07:40 PM
crank sensor has been flawless for the last week...  cant wait to get my wideband to get it all tuned properly.
viewed from under the car...
the red lines in the blue circle is what had to be machined on the damper so that the pulley does not end up 2mm offset from the other pulleys.
and this is what the wheels actualy look like, other than i had them cut with all of their 36 tooths so you can just cut the one you want for your set-up to work properly.

3x 2.3-16, one EFI, two project
tuned Cavalier 2.2 (winter beater)
Honda VTR 250 project bike (650cc mono + EFI swap)
Honda CL-70 1972 (125cc swap)
Honda VTR 250 1990
Last edited by The Benz Master : 06-13-2008 at 08:13 PM.
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Junior Member
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Posts: 193
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Kuala Lumpur , Malaysia
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06-14-2008, 02:55 AM
TBM, is that drawing usefull if i printout and send to a machine shop to fab 1 piece out. is the dimension correct?
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MechManiac
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Location: Berthierville, Canada
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06-16-2008, 10:15 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by chewyikai
TBM, is that drawing usefull if i printout and send to a machine shop to fab 1 piece out. is the dimension correct?
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This is the exact size of my trigger wheel, yes... but at the machine shop you would need the cad drawing to get it laser cut. and i dont think you can get a good price to have only one of them cut by the shop... i had to make 10 of them to get a good price. I sell them 50$ with the sensor and wiring instructions. i dont have mounting brackets for the sensor but you can just build one yourself or wait untill i make some but it wont be within one month cuz i am moving in 2 weeks and dont have time for this.
What ever you do, it will end up at least 3 times cheaper than sylvers trigger wheel and you'll have a Hall sensor.
3x 2.3-16, one EFI, two project
tuned Cavalier 2.2 (winter beater)
Honda VTR 250 project bike (650cc mono + EFI swap)
Honda CL-70 1972 (125cc swap)
Honda VTR 250 1990
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Senior Member
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Posts: 522
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: OC
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06-16-2008, 11:09 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Benz Master
crank sensor has been flawless for the last week...  cant wait to get my wideband to get it all tuned properly.
viewed from under the car...
the red lines in the blue circle is what had to be machined on the damper so that the pulley does not end up 2mm offset from the other pulleys.
and this is what the wheels actualy look like, other than i had them cut with all of their 36 tooths so you can just cut the one you want for your set-up to work properly.

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That looks really good. I need that for my car. Looks much better than the stuff I have.
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MechManiac
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Berthierville, Canada
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06-17-2008, 03:38 AM
indeed, it looks good. thinking about it, i'll try to bring the wheels i have to a friend who deals with electroplating so they wont rust and look OEM.
3x 2.3-16, one EFI, two project
tuned Cavalier 2.2 (winter beater)
Honda VTR 250 project bike (650cc mono + EFI swap)
Honda CL-70 1972 (125cc swap)
Honda VTR 250 1990
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Ninja
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Posts: 4,175
Join Date: May 2003
Location: New Jersey /:]
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06-20-2008, 01:59 PM
Got a delema here, silver's kit is starting to get to the better of me.
His crank trigger wheel design is nice but not helping me when i need help installing it.
He mentioned a crank spacer for the crank trigger wheel not going in to deep and pushing the front crank gasket to deep it. Smart me, pushed it infor sure.
Now I can't back that sucker out from inside.
And does anyone know how to install the crank sensor, and the adapter silver gave in for his kit, because it does not make sense to me where, or even how to install it on.I got the teeth 9 spaces ahead of the original sensors position on TBC. Please someone help me on this.........
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Warrior
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Everywhere you don't want to be
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06-20-2008, 04:23 PM
Megasquirt.
Heh...
The Excellence of Execution
"It is the business of the future to be dangerous." - Alfred North Whitehead
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Ninja
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Posts: 4,175
Join Date: May 2003
Location: New Jersey /:]
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06-21-2008, 04:22 PM
nevermind............
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MechManiac
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Location: Berthierville, Canada
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06-23-2008, 06:28 AM
for the seal, you could remove front cover to get it back out...
otherwise, i cant help you with sylvers kit.
TheGreyBaron... my MS works fine, you just have to learn how these things work, then it's easy. And support from B&G and their developers is impressive, and that's not to say unbeatable
3x 2.3-16, one EFI, two project
tuned Cavalier 2.2 (winter beater)
Honda VTR 250 project bike (650cc mono + EFI swap)
Honda CL-70 1972 (125cc swap)
Honda VTR 250 1990
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Member
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Posts: 233
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Vancouver, Canada
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07-06-2008, 03:16 AM
The benz Master
Thanks for all the information. Sorry for reply you so late. Because Im kind of busy for some school stuff. About the trigger wheel I think it is not fit to my sensor. Because it is too thin. Any I don't even can mount my sensor on the OEM knock sensor location. It end up need to do what Racing suggest before.
Second thing. How to wire up your rpm signal to the dash ? I remember it come from the ECU. But after we install the MS ....how to connect this ?
Thanks alot
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MechManiac
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Posts: 1,100
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Location: Berthierville, Canada
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07-07-2008, 04:39 AM
I dont know, this is the only thing left for me to wire in !! i dont know what type of signal the stock RPM uses. Racing might be able to tell us.
Yeah, my trigger wheel was really designed to be used with the OHB900 sensor... i choose it because it only cost 7$ (others were 40$ and up) and it does the job perfectly so i dont see the point in having a more expensive sensor there.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shisamo
The benz Master
Thanks for all the information. Sorry for reply you so late. Because Im kind of busy for some school stuff. About the trigger wheel I think it is not fit to my sensor. Because it is too thin. Any I don't even can mount my sensor on the OEM knock sensor location. It end up need to do what Racing suggest before.
Second thing. How to wire up your rpm signal to the dash ? I remember it come from the ECU. But after we install the MS ....how to connect this ?
Thanks alot
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3x 2.3-16, one EFI, two project
tuned Cavalier 2.2 (winter beater)
Honda VTR 250 project bike (650cc mono + EFI swap)
Honda CL-70 1972 (125cc swap)
Honda VTR 250 1990
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