megasquirt write-up for w201 - bounty - Page 12

Meshuganah · 10-31-2008, 01:05 AM

Shisamo most of the 'high performance' after market coils are high impedence. That is anything up to 30 ohms on the primary. In my experience, the standard coil which has about 10 ohms or less is a better unit as the discharge is better from the capacitor due to more current being demanded.
You may find that CDI works better with high impedence coils but if they are discharging via an SCR this will not be the case.
OEM coils are better. (IMHO)
Ciao.

Meshuganah · 10-31-2008, 01:11 AM

I have been having hassles with my idling and found out that it is because when I removed the CIS unit, I lost the anchor for the cable end assembly.
I tried to fabricate a bracket to replace the mounting and it seemed to be O.K. but it is not stable enough.

With the 8v W201, it is a good idea to keep the original mounting and so I have decided to cut the old CIS body and refit to replace the mountings. I think I can remove most of the underneath section and the flap of course, and the top cover section, leaving the 'ring' of bolt holes so that I can refit it.

Cheers.

*The Benz Master* · 10-31-2008, 04:32 AM

something like this would be fine

summitracing coil
and make sure to set the dwell parameters correctly if you dont want to over heat the coil or the coil driver circuit

megamanual, setting dwell parameters

Shisamo · 10-31-2008, 08:45 AM

Meshuganah

I know, the oem CDI coil is better. But unfortunaly the MS cant do the spark control on CDI coil. So thats why i need to find replacment for it .

The benz master

I have one question. What is dry coil ? is it mean the coil have no oil-filled ? a while before Racing advise me to go find any kind of dry coil is good to go ...so what is dry coil ?

*The Benz Master* · 10-31-2008, 06:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shisamo

Meshuganah

I know, the oem CDI coil is better. But unfortunaly the MS cant do the spark control on CDI coil. So thats why i need to find replacment for it .

The benz master

I have one question. What is dry coil ? is it mean the coil have no oil-filled ? a while before Racing advise me to go find any kind of dry coil is good to go ...so what is dry coil ?

not familiar with this appelation but i guess it's any coil that does not have the shape of the one i suggested...lol

you can also use a CDI box with the OEM coil... like an MSD6 or something similar... i know summit racing sells one with their name on it for half the price of a real MSD. It's arround 100$ for a summit CDI ignition box if i remember well.

Shisamo · 11-01-2008, 01:12 AM

The Benz Master ...

About the setting you told how to set the MS unti to accept the Hall sensor...
I have question to ask again ...

I just check the MS manual again ...do i need to add one 1k ohm resistor in between the TECHSELECT and XG1? and 2n2222 transistor in the proto area??

thanks alot

*The Benz Master* · 11-03-2008, 05:04 AM

Ehhhh.. Just keep R12 in place and wire the rest like i told you so.

i dont even know what you would do with a transistor in proto area.

the wire configuration i told you is what i personaly used this summer and done 7000km with my car set like that. No need of other changes. It does not have to be complicated, no need of additional transistors, pull-up resistors or what ever... just R12 in place, XG1 to "TachSelect" and 5v feed to optoin.

ppetracca · 11-03-2008, 09:11 AM

So those of you who are running the Innovate LC-1 wideband with your MS-II... do you get correct AFR readings? Mine doesn't work. Voltage reads +12v constant. All wiring is good, as I'm getting some other good voltage readings under VE (I'm pretty sure that's where it was), but wideband readings are just wrong. Anyone have the same problem?

I can figure out my AFR by riding around with a conversion table for VE volts to AFR and a calculator to figure out everything exactly... it's annoying as hell, though.

*The Benz Master* · 11-03-2008, 11:34 PM

yes, i had the same problem at first, you have to set the O2 sensor type in 2 or 3 places in megatune before it reads right.

from MS forums: "Go to Tools -> Calibrate AFR table and set it for your sensor calibration."

Meshuganah · 11-04-2008, 12:43 AM

Grrrrr... I've hit a brick wall.

Idling nicely on the driveway, revs up nice and smooth. Sounds the goods.
This car is not licenced yet so I have been reluctant to drive it but I took it up the road on the weekend and it ran like a cow.
Spluttered, farted, swore at me and all but cut out.

I have been through all the tables and the start up boxes, set req-fuel, thought it would be cool.
Wrong! I tore my hair out changing stuff and rereading all the info, but I cant seem to get it to work under any kind of load. Anyone had this?
I figured that I had this fixed......
cheers.

*The Benz Master* · 11-05-2008, 12:38 AM

good things to look at is fuel pressure, ignition timing and AFR.

does your map sensor have a good response?

Meshuganah · 11-05-2008, 02:57 AM

Hi, I am using the oem pressure regulator. There is a pic of it on Hexadeca's thread. Good for about 3 bars, I thought more, but still O.K.
Map sensor is good, TPS is good, Engine revs out very readily. Temp sensors are O.K......I have read and reread the guides at MS and worked them over, but still I am stuck. I have checked all the obvious easy stuff. Ignition is the OEM system untouched and the OEM O2 sensor is in but works through the old computer which is no longer connected to the fuel system...it used to rich up the fuel distributer.
I am working through the computer bit by bit to optimize all the settings but cant seem to get it right.
I have checked the board and there are no faults (yet).....
Stumped.
Cheers

*The Benz Master* · 11-05-2008, 05:22 AM

you need to tune your VE map... and you absolutely need an O2 sensor to tune your VE map... without it, you might be way lean or way rich without knowing it.

you could at least wire the oem O2 sensor to MS... it would tell if you're running lean or rich or arround 14.7:1

that's how i got mine running at first while i was waiting for my wideband.

*The Benz Master* · 11-05-2008, 05:26 AM

P.S. if it idles right, rec-fuel and such could be fine.

sputtering while driving (assuming the enngine is hot) has nothing to do with start-up set-up and / or warmup and such. These are used if you have some problems starting the car.

matsalleh76 · 11-05-2008, 01:31 PM

It is possible that the EZL is going into fail safe "limp home" mode because it is not getting expected signals from and can not converse with the ECU and if they do talk it may be like a duck trying to talk to a chicken.

You will get excellent help and advice on the Megasquirt forum: www.MSefi.com • Index page

bobf.