I'm New Here - How To Remove Cluster?

colincoon · 10:42 PM

One question though, how do I pop out the gauge cluster? I'd like to see if I can fix the odo myself before having to pay to get it fixed, but I couldent figure out how to axcess it over the weekend. Thanks guys.

**MTI** · 10-03-2007, 10:42 PM

Moved from the Lounge.

There are countless threads about removing the instrument cluster, available thru search.

colincoon · 10-03-2007, 10:51 PM

Thanks for the move, I'll do a search for it now. Sorry if I've caused any trouble.

John5788 · 10-04-2007, 03:10 AM

basically disconnect the speedo cable from the rear of the cluster, then you can use any method to pull the cluster out. its wedged in there tightly, so you can try grabbing at the edges of the cluster, removing the left vent, poking ur hand behind there and pushing it out, or push it out from under neath the dashboard after removing knee bolster

colincoon · 10-07-2007, 12:12 AM

I took the car into the shop for a checkup and asked if they would look at the odo. Apparently, it would cost too much for them to fix and not be worth it. I am still going to look and see if its anything simple, but if not, then crap.

John5788 · 10-07-2007, 03:31 AM

you can buy a cluster from ebay or junkyard for cheap

Polar Bear · 10-13-2007, 05:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by colincoon

One question though, how do I pop out the gauge cluster? I'd like to see if I can fix the odo myself before having to pay to get it fixed, but I couldent figure out how to axcess it over the weekend. Thanks guys.

Not sure what year you have, but I went through this on my 1990 2.6. The cluster developed some kind of paint defect that resembled mold, but I don't think that is what it was as it didn't come off easily at all, unless it was indeed mold and it ate through the brown paint around the gauges.
The way I removed it was not very effective, but I did managed to get it out and reinstall it. There is so little room to work it makes for a rough job the first time.

I removed the left vent assembly to insert my arm there and access the speedo cable and connectors, and the cluster is held in by pressure. As long as you can pull on it or push it out from the back, it will remove. There are no screws or fasteners that hold it in. The difficult part is removing the speedometer cable from the back of it. There are virtually no room to access it from the bottom of the driver’s footwell unless you have small hands and it will not come out far enough to unscrew it from behind the cluster. I was able to get my hand in behind the cluster after the left vent was removed just enough to slowly unscrew the cable. The wiring is fairly straight forward.
If I had to do over, I would-

a) Remove the steering wheel
b) Remove the knee bolster under the dash
c) Try to get everything out of the way under the dash and unscrew the cable from down there

I think I did mess something up, as ever since I removed and installed the cluster, my accessories have not worked correctly. Anything that should be powered on with the first notch on the ignition does not work in most cases. This includes the windshield wiper, radio, power windows, sunroof, SRS, etc. If I press on the right side of the cluster above the ignition switch, they magically work until I run over a rough spot in the road. Needless to say my cluster will come out the correct way the next time and I will get this resolved.

If you need to remove the vents, they are held in by pressure. You can take some needle nose pliers with a rag wrapped around the tip and grasp the actual vent and pull it straight out. The vent housing is another story. It is very difficult to remove in some cases – I replaced mine because it already had some cracks in it. It is held in my four strong tabs that will have to be pried out of their holes to remove it.

I have removed many clusters in my time and I have had the most frustration with this one.

I hope this gives you some insight on what needs to be done.

DaBenz · 10-13-2007, 06:48 AM

If you have small (but strong) monkey hands/fingers...

Place all 4 fingers on the lip just about the idiot lights, pull out the left side.
Remove electrical connections
Shove arm behind cluster and feel around for the speedo cable, unscrew it and remove
Pull right side out and undo electrical and light connections
Pull the whole cluster out as far as possible and slide it to the left side of the steering wheel.

I can pull my cluster in about 5mins now.

First time I did it i removed the left AC vent/loosened the center one, ducting, then shoved my hand behind it to undo the cable/push the cluster out. I've never had to remove the steering wheel.

danwatt · 10-13-2007, 07:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by colincoon

I took the car into the shop for a checkup and asked if they would look at the odo. Apparently, it would cost too much for them to fix and not be worth it. I am still going to look and see if its anything simple, but if not, then crap.

That's mechanic speak for "we have no idea how this voodoo magic works".

Polar Bear · 10-13-2007, 04:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DaBenz

I've never had to remove the steering wheel.

The thing I was worrried about was marring up the leather on the steering wheel because the cluster touches the steering wheel the entire time it is being removed and wiggled from behind it.

I wish my hands were as small as yours!

BG · 10-13-2007, 04:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Polar Bear

The thing I was worrried about was marring up the leather on the steering wheel because the cluster touches the steering wheel the entire time it is being removed and wiggled from behind it.

I wish my hands were as small as yours!

When removing parts it is a good practice to place blue masking tape on surfaces that you want to protect. When I remove the cluster, several times this year, I would put the blue tape on my wood surfaces to protect them from scratches. Works perfect.

DarkCreep · 10-13-2007, 06:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BG

When removing parts it is a good practice to place blue masking tape on surfaces that you want to protect. When I remove the cluster, several times this year, I would put the blue tape on my wood surfaces to protect them from scratches. Works perfect.

For some odd reason, that looks good.

Polar Bear · 10-13-2007, 06:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BG

When removing parts it is a good practice to place blue masking tape on surfaces that you want to protect. When I remove the cluster, several times this year, I would put the blue tape on my wood surfaces to protect them from scratches. Works perfect.

Very nice interior!

Since you have some experience removing the cluster, what method works best for you?

marknute · 10-13-2007, 07:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Polar Bear

Not sure what year you have, but I went through this on my 1990 2.6. The cluster developed some kind of paint defect that resembled mold, but I don't think that is what it was as it didn't come off easily at all, unless it was indeed mold and it ate through the brown paint around the gauges.

I had that problem in my 560sel, I believe the previous owners had sprayed the interior surfaces with either a strong solvent or a sodium alkaline based cleaner which ruined much of the plastic surfaces. The instrument cluster was basically destroyed because of it. I would reccomend being very cautious with any type of cleaner around the interior plastics and especially the switches (the symbols can deteriorate).

BG · 10-13-2007, 08:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Polar Bear

Very nice interior!

Since you have some experience removing the cluster, what method works best for you?

Thanks for the comments. Alot of hard work and $$$.

Monkey grip the cluster with your fingers and pull it out far enough to reach behind and unscrew the speedo cable. I have large hands and it is a tight squeeze but is not a big deal. I also recommend you have some tape and permanent marker to label the wires and cluster as you remove them. This will save removing the cluster several more times to get it right.

colincoon · 10-14-2007, 03:21 AM

I have fairly small hands (no fatty fingers) and having worked with R/C planes, I can feel my way around stuff. Im going to give it a trial run on Tuesday and see if Im able to get it out and in again. I'll move on from there in terms of getting the odo to work again.

By the way, I took the car in for a major "physical". I'll post that in a different topic, but after asking my mechanic to fix the odo he said it would cost $525. The whole cluster would have to be shipped out and tested, plus I can't drive the car as it would apparently kill my battery. All of that for a stipped gear or misaligned pin =/

**Cdn190er** · 10-14-2007, 03:28 AM

A email from the VDO repair depot
"The cost for the re-gearing and recalibration of the speedometer is $95.00. The cost to print the dials (3) as in your picture is $465.00. The cost for the standard shipping to you is $19.50. From the picture I see the background as silver, and red, orange, black and white printing. Red numbers and hash marks, orange shift marks, and black/white BBS logo. If we do go ahead with this we do need a cleaner BBS logo as reference.

Hartmut C. Mees
Palo Alto Speedometer, Inc.
718 Emerson Street
Palo Alto, CA 94301-2410
tel : 650.323.0243
fax : 650.323.4632
www.paspeedo.com
info@paspeedo.com'

just so you know, once you have it removed you can mail away the speedo. Just remove it and then put the cluster back in, but first record your speeds at various gears and RPMs. Then you use your tach instead.

colincoon · 10-14-2007, 03:35 AM

^Thanks for sharing that with me, I'll have to sent it to them if its totaly shot.

Oh, 2000 for 50mph, 2400 for 55, 3000 for 60 and 3500 for 70! I've been paying attention hehe.

201element · 10-14-2007, 03:49 AM

There are plenty of write ups. Maybe Kynyption could make a video on it!

DaBenz · 10-14-2007, 06:42 AM

If BG's meathooks work fine for the method I gave I'm sure you can manage :D