190 Revolution

Go Back   190 Revolution > Technical Discussion > In Car Electronics
In Car Electronics All things car stereo for your 190E.

Reply
 
Trackback Thread Tools Display Modes
Bigger alternator
Old
  (#1 (permalink))
dan_189
Senior Member
 
dan_189's Avatar
 
Status: Offline
Posts: 820
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Bigger alternator - 10-21-2008, 05:18 AM

Hi guys what is the biggest alternator that will fit the m102 block?
Will any alternators from other series bolt up to it?
Want a new alternator that is 150A, currently have a 70A one
Also are there any problems with upgrading the alternator? Will the engine have more strain on it? Will there be a noticible performance loss?
Thanks :)
   
Reply With Quote

Old
  (#2 (permalink))
MTI
Administrator
 
MTI's Avatar
 
Status: Offline
Posts: 4,146
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Most Remote Land Mass On Earth
10-21-2008, 06:01 AM

Look what the Search Dragged In!



The Biggest Bargain From Germany Since Wernher Von Braun - Car & Driver November 1983
   
Reply With Quote
Old
  (#3 (permalink))
Dale315
Junior Member
 
Status: Offline
Posts: 110
Join Date: Jun 2008
10-21-2008, 05:26 PM

more strain cuz the 150s are bigger and heavier. performance loss is only noticeable if the engine doesnt already produce enough power. i dont feel a big difference or any at all in my 2.6 tho. my 150 setup has been working fine for about 3-4 months since i installed it.
   
Reply With Quote
Old
  (#4 (permalink))
danwatt
Jedi
 
danwatt's Avatar
 
Status: Offline
Posts: 2,219
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Vista, CA
10-21-2008, 09:37 PM

You'll only experience performance loss if the car is drawing that much current.

And even if you are drawing the full 150 amps (which you probably won't) then you'll lose around two and a half horsepower. 1 horse power is equal to around 745 watts. 13.1v times 150a = 1965 watts, so 1965 divided by 745 is 2.6 HP. Of course, the alternator isn't 100% efficient so it may be a bit more, something like 5 or 6 horsepower at 150a.

But drawing 40a (normal operation with headlights, AC, etc on) with a 70a alternator should give you the same power loss as drawing 40a with a 150a alternator. If there IS a power loss under standard operation, it would be due to increased drag... the 150a alternator uses a more heavy duty rotor which may take more effort to spin, but the difference is insignificant.

So this misconception that a 150a alternator is ALWAYS outputting 150a isn't correct. It's outputting whatever the car draws from it. Now when there is a heavier load on the alternator (sound system is booming, headlights on, etc) the alternator has to generate a stronger magnetic field to keep up, resulting in a heavier load on the engine. Okay?


92 2.6. 199 on black.
Worklog
   
Reply With Quote
Old
  (#5 (permalink))
dan_189
Senior Member
 
dan_189's Avatar
 
Status: Offline
Posts: 820
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Melbourne, Australia
10-22-2008, 03:51 AM

Ahhh interesting thanks for that, didnt think it output 150A all the time but I didnt know that it will only strain the engine when it is outputting more. I thought it would create a strain no matter what its putting out.
Dale did you install the new alternator yourself, was it difficult? Do you have any instructions or tips? What alternator did you use?
Thanks!

Last edited by dan_189 : 10-22-2008 at 04:04 AM.
   
Reply With Quote
Old
  (#6 (permalink))
dan_189
Senior Member
 
dan_189's Avatar
 
Status: Offline
Posts: 820
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Melbourne, Australia
10-22-2008, 03:55 AM

Just a quick question, why are there 2 power wires comming off the alternator to the distribution block? Is the bigger alt to batt cable a good idea? What could go wrong?
Thanks
   
Reply With Quote
Old
  (#7 (permalink))
danwatt
Jedi
 
danwatt's Avatar
 
Status: Offline
Posts: 2,219
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Vista, CA
10-22-2008, 07:36 PM

It is very very easy to install, I have done it in a parking lot (twice actually) without jacking the car up. Just get some 15mm wrenches and have at it. YouŽll need to loosen the belt tensioner.


92 2.6. 199 on black.
Worklog
   
Reply With Quote
Old
  (#8 (permalink))
Dale315
Junior Member
 
Status: Offline
Posts: 110
Join Date: Jun 2008
10-22-2008, 10:13 PM

did it myself also. i scored a rebuilt 150a from ebay for around $150.

for the wiring. the bigger wire is power and the little one is ground.

i used 0gauge for power and 16gauge speaker wire(only one side of course) for the ground. i would suggest upgrading the neg. batt cable too, just cuz.

to wire it i routed the power from alt directly to the batt terminal, and the ground from alt back to the distro block.

you'll need multi-port batt terminals if you want a clean look, and maybe think of getting a stronger battery like a yellowtop if you havent already done so.
   
Reply With Quote
Old
  (#9 (permalink))
dan_189
Senior Member
 
dan_189's Avatar
 
Status: Offline
Posts: 820
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Melbourne, Australia
10-23-2008, 11:16 AM

I have upgraded my grounds from my battery to the chassis, I have 2 4AWG cables and have grounded the engine block with 4AWG as well.
I had a yellow top but I sold it lol
Those cables are very small for power and ground... Might upgrade them both to 4AWG
So the alt is grounded to the chassis? Not the block?
Did you ground the alt back to the dist. block, why not to the chassis directly?
Thanks :)
   
Reply With Quote
Old
  (#10 (permalink))
Dale315
Junior Member
 
Status: Offline
Posts: 110
Join Date: Jun 2008
10-23-2008, 02:13 PM

i grounded the alternator back to the distro block just cuz it was the stock location. you can probably go either way.
   
Reply With Quote
Old
  (#11 (permalink))
danwatt
Jedi
 
danwatt's Avatar
 
Status: Offline
Posts: 2,219
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Vista, CA
10-23-2008, 05:23 PM

The other cable (labeled D+ I believe) is not a ground wire. It is for the warning lamp in your dash. Do not not connect to ground.


92 2.6. 199 on black.
Worklog
   
Reply With Quote
Old
  (#12 (permalink))
Dale315
Junior Member
 
Status: Offline
Posts: 110
Join Date: Jun 2008
10-23-2008, 06:01 PM

warning lamp?
   
Reply With Quote
Old
  (#13 (permalink))
danwatt
Jedi
 
danwatt's Avatar
 
Status: Offline
Posts: 2,219
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Vista, CA
10-23-2008, 08:47 PM

You know, in your instrument cluster. The battery light. It's a 12v signal, connecting to ground is a pretty bad idea. This is why you need to use a multimeter before you start guessing where wires go.


92 2.6. 199 on black.
Worklog
   
Reply With Quote
Old
  (#14 (permalink))
Dale315
Junior Member
 
Status: Offline
Posts: 110
Join Date: Jun 2008
10-23-2008, 09:00 PM

oh ok. thanks for the clarification. good thing i connected it back to the right spot. all the diy write ups stated that it was a ground wire.
   
Reply With Quote
Old
  (#15 (permalink))
dan_189
Senior Member
 
dan_189's Avatar
 
Status: Offline
Posts: 820
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Melbourne, Australia
10-24-2008, 03:13 PM

Didnt think it was a ground wire, isnt the alternator grounded to the block by being connected to it?
Also when I connected alt to batt with a 4awg power cable I remember hearing a whine, was it my imagination? Still not sure about the alt to batt, read something somewhere about engine managment issues...
   
Reply With Quote
Old
  (#16 (permalink))
Dale315
Junior Member
 
Status: Offline
Posts: 110
Join Date: Jun 2008
10-24-2008, 05:10 PM

was there also any info about the alt to batt causing an abs fault? cuz my light came on a few weeks ago and is constantly lit. just wondering if they relate. but my voltage is fine at around 14.2v